Arles Arena
While the cooking class will forever be our most memorable memory of Arles. The small town offers many of its own exceptional sites including this terrifically preserved arena. Bull fights are still held here, though today the bull is not killed, at least not in this arena. It also host concerts and even operas. It was built during the Roman times (1 B.C.) but later after the downfall of the Roman Empire (5th century), it became a shelter. 200 homes and two chapels were built within the arena and a little town was formed. Not until the 1800’s was the town torn down and the arena returned to it’s original intent.

I couldn’t get over the immaculately cooked stones. How did the Romans do that- and then, how did they lift these huge rocks to the height of these enormous hallways? I felt similarly when we visited Pont du Gard- the best preserved Roman aqueduct. Each time I left these monumental engineering achievements I felt inspired- to do better with what I have. In today’s age I so often find myself thinking, if I only had this lens I could take a better picture, if I had this program I could learn that language, If I had more flowers I would have a more beautiful garden. . . but the Romans had a hammer and a chisel and they built these incredibly stable and beautiful edifices. I shouldn’t rely on technology for greatness.

Pont du Gard

I love this photo because you get a sense of the sheer size of this thing.

A quick funny memory to share. We were there only a few days after the last bull fight had been held, and as we walked the dark hallways I started wondering where they kept the bulls, when all of a sudden out of the corner of my eye I see this fella! I screamed and jumped back only to realize that it was very fake. We both laughed and laughed. (Pregnancy has definitely made me more jumpy.)

Cloister in Arles

One of the things one has to expect when visiting Europe is restoration work. Scaffolding often cover large parts of what one traveled thousands of miles to see, such as the Maison Carree we went to see in Nimes that was completely covered in scaffolding. Or even St. Mark’s cathedral in Venice. Luckily the Duomo in Milan no longer had the scaffolding that covered a third of it the last time I was there. This column however shows the result of a recent cleaning, it gleams brightly as it would have when it was first carved. The intricacy and detail is beautiful. Columns such as these are commonplace in Europe- something that is hard to wrap one’s head around when you’re from young America.

Decorative door in Arles.
 I loved the abundance of huge decorative doors. Sometimes the doors are so large that they contain smaller doors within them that can be opened and closed without opening the entire large door!  I was very sad when we had to replace our back kitchen door with a newer alternative. I love the solid wood doors in my 1945 home, but man would I adore to have some beautiful wood doors like these as my front entrance. Again, however these are not particularly special doors. Apartment buildings will don doors like these, or shops, and churches.

Beauty. A vine covered in these unearthly blooms covered a wall in a back alley where we walked.

My handsome hub.
I wanted to include this picture because of the coloring. This sort of warm beige stone is everywhere in Europe. The houses, churches, streets are made of it. I love it!


Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes)

Speaking of large doors

During a particularly violent time in Rome (1309) Pope Clement V set up his religious center in Avignon, France. Succeeding popes added to the Palace making it into the enormous edifice it is today. In 1403 after an attempt to return to Rome there was the Papal Schism at which time there were two Popes over the catholic church- one in Rome, one in Avignon. These were the dark days of the Catholic church- when the pope was living more like a king than a religious head.

Any trip to Europe wouldn’t be complete without it!
(In the background Pont du Avignon- there’s a french nursery song about this bridge.)

Tour Magne in Nimes
We didn’t get to Nimes until after dark, but there were still several things we wanted to see there so we decided to stop anyway. Several were on the site of the Gardens of Fontaine. There was a large festival going on in the town so the gardens were empty and Tom and I enjoyed exploring them alone in the dark. They were built 50 years after the gardens at Versailles, and contain some of the same elegant beauty. However, they were built for the people- a first. The fountains and rivers sparkled in the moonlight. We were looking for the Temple of Diane, but ended up finding this tower at the top of the hill. We later found the temple, which was not lit up and therefore very difficult to appreciate.  Nimes, unlike Arles, is seeking a more modern outlook. The town was alive with loud music, lots of drinking and smoking, and tons of college-age kids partying in the streets. The Maison Carree, a spectacularly preserved Roman Temple, was hidden by a large metal stage that was erected for some concert. I imagine it’s hard to be surrounded by such archaic history. There is a certain responsibility there than must be somewhat burdensome. Some of the towns of Provence are proud and content with their rich heritage, while others are more focused on a bright future.